This Mandevilla is still looking pretty after 2 nights of freezing temperatures that took out most of the other tender flowers. It always lasts well, and I think it must be quite tough combined with being on the concrete and against brick which absorb the sun's heat all afternoon and then releases it at night. It still looks relatively unscathed. The same cannot be said for the Cupheas (pictures below). Both these plants, the candy corn (first picture below) and the bat faced Cuphea (second) were burned past repair on the night of the first freeze. Both of these Cupheas are perennials that love the heat, so I expect them back next year unless something bad happens overwinter. All 3 of these plants do well (with some water) in the heat and humidity of August and flower on till frost. I will soon be taking the Mandevilla into the greenhouse, because I do not want it to truly freeze, as I am sure it would be killed. I simply wrack it off and leave anywhere from one to 2 feet of bare stem when I take it inside. It sulks awhile, then begins to show new growth about January/February.
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Mandevilla
This Mandevilla is still looking pretty after 2 nights of freezing temperatures that took out most of the other tender flowers. It always lasts well, and I think it must be quite tough combined with being on the concrete and against brick which absorb the sun's heat all afternoon and then releases it at night. It still looks relatively unscathed. The same cannot be said for the Cupheas (pictures below). Both these plants, the candy corn (first picture below) and the bat faced Cuphea (second) were burned past repair on the night of the first freeze. Both of these Cupheas are perennials that love the heat, so I expect them back next year unless something bad happens overwinter. All 3 of these plants do well (with some water) in the heat and humidity of August and flower on till frost. I will soon be taking the Mandevilla into the greenhouse, because I do not want it to truly freeze, as I am sure it would be killed. I simply wrack it off and leave anywhere from one to 2 feet of bare stem when I take it inside. It sulks awhile, then begins to show new growth about January/February.
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